Thu 7 Jul 2005
For those of you confused by the posts with funny French names, this is Day 5 of my Quebec travel journal. It was originally written on Wednesday, June 8.
When I woke up this morning, I felt like a car wreck. Joshua was awake half the night. We gave him cough medicine with pseudoephedrine in it by accident.
Yesterday, we took him up to the historic (read: tourist) district and had poutine. Ah, if only I could get cheese curds back home. It started to rain the instant we sat down at our nice little sidewalk table on the Grande Allee. Afterwards, we drove down to the riverfront to park and walk around the Vieux Port, the oldest section of the city. This is a collection of cobblestone streets and 1700s-era buildings huddled between the St. Lawrence River and the 200-foot ridge that supports the rest of the city. In the manner of old cities, the history, architecture, and geography are intertwined. The riverfront was settled first, in the 17th century. Later, in the 18th and 19th centuries, things moved uphill. Quebec City’s location is a military strategist’s dream: the St. Lawrence River is the main waterway from the Atlantic to the continental interior, and narrows to about a mile across at the city. Cape Diamond, the aforementioned 200-foot ridge, looms out over the river and sports a fortress (aptly named the Citadelle) at its peak. This was the setting for the major battle of the French and Indian War, prequel to the American Revolution. George Washington cut his military teeth (not the wooden ones) in the battle here.
So, we have 17th and 18th century architecture by the river, 19th century architecture (government buildings, houses, fortress) on the hilltop, and modern sprawl on the other side of the ridge. Our apartment is in the latter section, but if you’re a serious walker and don’t mind climbing a hundred steps, you could make it to downtown (which is up!) from where we’re staying in about twenty minutes. There are sets of stairs all over town to get you up and down. We poked around the Vieux Port for awhile, enduring the drizzle, stroller bouncing on the cobblestones. Most of the old buildings contain fancy tourist restaurants, art shops, or souvenir dives. Gluttons that we are, we decided to walk up the hill. In the rain. In flip-flops. Pushing a stroller. We stuck our heads in a couple more souvenir shops, used the facilities at the Chateau Frontenac (the most famous city landmark, a hotel that resembles a German castle), went back down the hill, and drove home.
We read for awhile (I really like not having cable TV this week!), and the women did more shopping. The family came over and we had a hit-and-miss catered dinner of sandwiches and other finger foods. The tuna sandwiches were awful. We put up the swing, which (if you’ll recall yesterday’s entry) turned out not to be so long-departed after all; it was, in fact, hiding in the basement. I finally broke the ice with cousin Olivier by getting him to feed Joshua his evening bottle. His cold has progressed to the coughing stage, so we went with Olivier to the drugstore to pick up cough medicine. Which (if you’ll recall the first paragraph) turned out to be a bad idea.
So, back to today. Lack of sleep notwithstanding, we went running up on the Plains of Abraham. This is a nice park of grassy rolling hills flanking downtown, up on top of the ridge. The battle I mentioned earlier took place here, and the park features the usual array of cannon, powder magazines, and interpretive placards. While jogging up and down the hills, we debated what to do today and the rest of the week. We agreed that this vacation has been a lot of work, but somehow, we sound like we’re arguing even when we agree.
I lobby for a visit to the museum. There’s a Russian history exhibit going on. Stephanie wants to go (where else) shopping. I think we’ve reached a compromise.
(to be continued)
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6 Responses to “Mercredi”
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Bryan Says:
July 7th, 2005 at 7:20 pmVacation always brings out interesting spousal discussions….
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Megan Says:
July 8th, 2005 at 9:42 amWhen my husband and I were dating, we were unable to go away together without fighting. Ever. Not very relaxing, is it?
Quebec sounds beautiful; I’ve never been there. Hope the rest of your vacation is relaxing for all of you.
Have a good weekend - oh, and Michele sent me!
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Brandie Says:
July 8th, 2005 at 5:43 pmI’ve always wanted to go to Canada, but haven’t had the opportunity yet. I hope you enjoyed yourselves!
BTW, Michele sent me as well.
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MissMeliss Says:
July 8th, 2005 at 8:35 pmI’m really enjoying your posts with the “funny French names.” I can SEE Quebec, through your eyes, and words.
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Free to Be Says:
July 12th, 2005 at 4:01 pmI was going to see that. Thanks for letting me know not to waste my time. Just saw War of the Worlds and saw a lot of rip offs from Alien and Independence Day.
Hello from Michele’s.
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Jonathan Says:
July 13th, 2005 at 9:43 amF2B: I put up a mini-review of that one here as well. Also, note that the comment link is on top of the post, not at the bottom. Thanks for stopping by!